Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)

Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)

آبگوشت

Iran's most ancient and beloved comfort food—a hearty lamb stew with chickpeas, white beans, and potatoes, slow-simmered until the meat falls apart. Served in two acts: first the aromatic broth is sipped with torn bread, then the solids are mashed into a rustic spread called goosht koobideh. This communal ritual dish embodies Persian hospitality.

diziPrep: 20 minCook: 180 mineasyServes 6

Cultural Note

Abgoosht (literally 'meat water') is considered Iran's oldest stew, with roots in nomadic cooking. It's traditionally served in individual stone or clay pots called 'dizi' in teahouses. The ritual of separating broth and solids, then mashing and sharing, makes it a deeply communal experience. Friday lunch staple and the ultimate Persian comfort food.

Critical Moments

  • Skimming the broth thoroughly at the start
  • Maintaining very low simmer for 2.5-3 hours
  • Ensuring all components are completely tender before mashing
1
PREP5 min

Soak the legumes

Place chickpeas and white beans in separate bowls (they may cook at different rates). Cover each with cold water by at least 8cm. Soak for 8-12 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse before using.

Legumes will have doubled in size; skins slightly wrinkled
TouchBeans should be plump and give slightly when pressed
Quick soak method: cover with boiling water, soak 2 hours. Overnight is better for even cooking.
Checkpoint: Discard any legumes that remain hard or discolored
While waiting: Take lamb out of fridge to come to room temperature
2
PREP10 min

Prepare the meat and vegetables

Cut lamb into large pieces (8-10cm), keeping bones in. Quarter the onion. Quarter the tomatoes. Peel and quarter the potatoes (keep in cold water until ready to use). Pierce each dried lime 3-4 times with a sharp knife.

Large, rustic cuts—this is peasant food, not refined
Bone-in meat is essential—the marrow enriches the broth significantly

Common Mistakes

  • Cutting meat too small (falls apart too much)
  • Forgetting to pierce dried limes (flavor won't release)
3
COOK5 min

Build the pot

In a large heavy pot, layer ingredients: place lamb and lamb fat (if using) at the bottom. Add soaked chickpeas and white beans. Nestle in onion quarters and pierced dried limes. Add turmeric, salt, and pepper. Pour in water to cover everything by about 5cm.

Ingredients layered with meat at bottom, legumes distributed throughout
SmellRaw meat and earthy turmeric
Don't add potatoes and tomatoes yet—they go in later to prevent them from disintegrating
4
COOK15 min

Bring to boil and skim

Place pot over high heat and bring to a boil. As it heats, gray foam (scum) will rise to the surface. Skim this off with a spoon and discard. Continue skimming until liquid is relatively clear.

Foam rising to surface; liquid becoming clearer after skimming
HighFull boil
SmellRaw meaty smell transforms to cleaner broth aroma
SoundRolling boil

Critical Step

Skimming removes impurities and excess fat that would make the broth cloudy and greasy. This step is essential for a clean-tasting final broth.

Keep a bowl of water nearby to rinse your skimming spoon

Common Mistakes

  • Skipping the skimming (cloudy, greasy broth)
  • Stirring vigorously while skimming (redistributes scum)
5
COOK120 min

Long, slow simmer

Once skimmed, reduce heat to very low. Cover pot with lid slightly ajar. Simmer gently for 2 hours, checking occasionally to ensure liquid level stays adequate (add hot water if needed).

Occasional lazy bubbles breaking the surface; broth slowly turning golden
LowBare simmer ~95°C / 200°F
SmellDeveloping rich, meaty aroma with tangy dried lime notes
SoundVery occasional gentle bubbling

Critical Step

Low and slow is the soul of abgoosht. High heat toughens meat. The long simmer extracts collagen from bones, creating silky, rich broth. This cannot be rushed.

The broth should barely move—if it's actively bubbling, the heat is too high
Checkpoint: After 1.5 hours, test chickpeas—they should be nearly tender
While waiting: Prepare sabzi khordan and set up serving dishes
6
COOK50 min

Add potatoes and tomatoes

After 2 hours, add quartered potatoes and tomatoes to the pot. If liquid has reduced significantly, add hot water to maintain level. Continue simmering for another 45-60 minutes.

Potatoes and tomatoes nestled among the meat; tomatoes breaking down
LowGentle simmer
SmellTomato adds sweetness to the broth aroma
SoundGentle bubbling
Adding potatoes late prevents them from completely disintegrating into the broth
Checkpoint: Test a potato with a knife—should slide in easily when done
7
COOK10 min

Final cooking and checking

The stew is ready when: lamb falls off the bone easily, chickpeas and beans are completely tender (no chalkiness), potatoes are soft throughout. Taste broth and adjust salt—it should be well-seasoned and tangy from the dried limes.

Meat pulling away from bones; all components very soft; broth is golden and aromatic
SmellDeep, complex—meaty, tangy, earthy all at once
TouchEverything yields easily; no resistance when pressed

Critical Step

Under-cooked legumes or tough meat ruins the dish. Everything must be completely tender for proper mashing. The dried limes should be very soft—their tang should permeate the broth.

If legumes aren't tender but meat is falling apart, remove meat temporarily while legumes finish cooking

Common Mistakes

  • Under-cooking legumes (chalky texture in final mash)
  • Under-salting broth (tastes flat)
  • Not enough dried lime tang (add another pierced lime if needed)
8
FINISH5 min

Separate broth and solids

Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer all solids to a large bowl or platter. Remove and discard bones (or save for stock). Keep the dried limes—they can be mashed in or served alongside for those who want extra tang. Keep broth warm in the pot.

Clear golden broth in pot; pile of soft solids in bowl
TouchSolids should be soft enough to break apart easily
Work over the pot to catch any drips—every drop of that broth is precious
9
FINISH5 min

Mash the solids (goosht koobideh)

Using a goosht-koob (traditional masher), large fork, or potato masher, mash the solids together until you have a rough, spreadable paste. The texture should be rustic—not smooth like hummus, but cohesive. Some prefer it chunkier, others smoother. Taste and add salt if needed.

Rough, golden-brown paste with visible texture; spreadable but not smooth
SmellConcentrated meaty, savory aroma
SoundSatisfying squelching as ingredients combine
TouchThick, spreadable, rustic

Critical Step

The goosht koobideh texture is personal preference but it must be mashable. If you're struggling to mash, the components weren't cooked long enough.

Traditional goosht-koob is a heavy metal pestle. A potato masher works fine. Some people use the back of a large spoon.
10
FINISH

Serve in two stages

Stage 1 (Ab): Ladle hot broth into small bowls. Tear pieces of sangak or lavash bread and float them in the broth. Sip and eat the soaked bread. Stage 2 (Goosht): Spread the mashed goosht koobideh onto bread, add fresh herbs, raw onion, and torshi. Eat as open-faced sandwiches.

Clear golden broth with bread floating; separate plate of mashed spread with accompaniments
SmellAromatic broth steam; fresh herbs
TouchSilky broth-soaked bread; rich, meaty spread
This two-stage eating ritual is the heart of abgoosht. Don't rush it—this is communal, leisurely eating.

Extras

Equipment

large heavy potdizi potgoosht koobstandard

Make Ahead

  • Complete stew can be made 1-2 days ahead and refrigerated.
  • Fat will solidify on top (easy to remove if desired).
  • Keep broth and solids together until reheating.

Reheat gently, adding a splash of water if too thick.

Separate and mash just before serving.

Serve With

🍚Not traditionally served with rice—bread is essential

Sides

  • Sangak or lavash bread (essential)
  • Sabzi khordan (fresh herb platter)
  • Torshi (pickled vegetables)
  • Raw onion slices
  • Fresh radishes

Drinks

  • Doogh
  • Black tea

Substitutions

lambBeef shank or chuck works but changes the character. Lamb is traditional and preferred.
dried limeNo true substitute—essential for authentic flavor. In emergency: lime zest + juice + pinch of amchur, but results will differ significantly.
lamb fatCan omit for leaner version, or use a small amount of ghee for richness.
dizi potAny heavy pot works for cooking. For individual service, use oven-safe ceramic bowls.

Scaling

Scales up easily for gatherings—traditionally made in large batches. Double recipe needs larger pot but same cooking time. Each serving traditionally gets its own small pot (dizi) for authenticity.

Source

Traditional · Traditional home cooking

One of the oldest Persian dishes, dating back centuries. Originally a shepherd's meal, now served in traditional teahouses (chaikhaneh) and homes across Iran.

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