Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)

Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)

آبگوشت

Iran's most ancient and beloved comfort food—a hearty lamb stew with chickpeas, white beans, and potatoes, slow-simmered until the meat falls apart. Served in two acts: first the aromatic broth is sipped with torn bread, then the solids are mashed into a rustic spread called goosht koobideh. This communal ritual dish embodies Persian hospitality.

diziPréparation: 20 minCuisson: 180 mineasyPour 6

Note culturelle

Abgoosht (literally 'meat water') is considered Iran's oldest stew, with roots in nomadic cooking. It's traditionally served in individual stone or clay pots called 'dizi' in teahouses. The ritual of separating broth and solids, then mashing and sharing, makes it a deeply communal experience. Friday lunch staple and the ultimate Persian comfort food.

Moments Critiques

  • Skimming the broth thoroughly at the start
  • Maintaining very low simmer for 2.5-3 hours
  • Ensuring all components are completely tender before mashing
1
PRÉPARATION5 min

Soak the legumes

Place chickpeas and white beans in separate bowls (they may cook at different rates). Cover each with cold water by at least 8cm. Soak for 8-12 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse before using.

Legumes will have doubled in size; skins slightly wrinkled
TextureBeans should be plump and give slightly when pressed
Quick soak method: cover with boiling water, soak 2 hours. Overnight is better for even cooking.
Point de contrôle: Discard any legumes that remain hard or discolored
En attendant: Take lamb out of fridge to come to room temperature
2
PRÉPARATION10 min

Prepare the meat and vegetables

Cut lamb into large pieces (8-10cm), keeping bones in. Quarter the onion. Quarter the tomatoes. Peel and quarter the potatoes (keep in cold water until ready to use). Pierce each dried lime 3-4 times with a sharp knife.

Large, rustic cuts—this is peasant food, not refined
Bone-in meat is essential—the marrow enriches the broth significantly

Erreurs Courantes

  • Cutting meat too small (falls apart too much)
  • Forgetting to pierce dried limes (flavor won't release)
3
CUISSON5 min

Build the pot

In a large heavy pot, layer ingredients: place lamb and lamb fat (if using) at the bottom. Add soaked chickpeas and white beans. Nestle in onion quarters and pierced dried limes. Add turmeric, salt, and pepper. Pour in water to cover everything by about 5cm.

Ingredients layered with meat at bottom, legumes distributed throughout
OdeurRaw meat and earthy turmeric
Don't add potatoes and tomatoes yet—they go in later to prevent them from disintegrating
4
CUISSON15 min

Bring to boil and skim

Place pot over high heat and bring to a boil. As it heats, gray foam (scum) will rise to the surface. Skim this off with a spoon and discard. Continue skimming until liquid is relatively clear.

Foam rising to surface; liquid becoming clearer after skimming
HighFull boil
OdeurRaw meaty smell transforms to cleaner broth aroma
SonRolling boil

Étape Critique

Skimming removes impurities and excess fat that would make the broth cloudy and greasy. This step is essential for a clean-tasting final broth.

Keep a bowl of water nearby to rinse your skimming spoon

Erreurs Courantes

  • Skipping the skimming (cloudy, greasy broth)
  • Stirring vigorously while skimming (redistributes scum)
5
CUISSON120 min

Long, slow simmer

Once skimmed, reduce heat to very low. Cover pot with lid slightly ajar. Simmer gently for 2 hours, checking occasionally to ensure liquid level stays adequate (add hot water if needed).

Occasional lazy bubbles breaking the surface; broth slowly turning golden
LowBare simmer ~95°C / 200°F
OdeurDeveloping rich, meaty aroma with tangy dried lime notes
SonVery occasional gentle bubbling

Étape Critique

Low and slow is the soul of abgoosht. High heat toughens meat. The long simmer extracts collagen from bones, creating silky, rich broth. This cannot be rushed.

The broth should barely move—if it's actively bubbling, the heat is too high
Point de contrôle: After 1.5 hours, test chickpeas—they should be nearly tender
En attendant: Prepare sabzi khordan and set up serving dishes
6
CUISSON50 min

Add potatoes and tomatoes

After 2 hours, add quartered potatoes and tomatoes to the pot. If liquid has reduced significantly, add hot water to maintain level. Continue simmering for another 45-60 minutes.

Potatoes and tomatoes nestled among the meat; tomatoes breaking down
LowGentle simmer
OdeurTomato adds sweetness to the broth aroma
SonGentle bubbling
Adding potatoes late prevents them from completely disintegrating into the broth
Point de contrôle: Test a potato with a knife—should slide in easily when done
7
CUISSON10 min

Final cooking and checking

The stew is ready when: lamb falls off the bone easily, chickpeas and beans are completely tender (no chalkiness), potatoes are soft throughout. Taste broth and adjust salt—it should be well-seasoned and tangy from the dried limes.

Meat pulling away from bones; all components very soft; broth is golden and aromatic
OdeurDeep, complex—meaty, tangy, earthy all at once
TextureEverything yields easily; no resistance when pressed

Étape Critique

Under-cooked legumes or tough meat ruins the dish. Everything must be completely tender for proper mashing. The dried limes should be very soft—their tang should permeate the broth.

If legumes aren't tender but meat is falling apart, remove meat temporarily while legumes finish cooking

Erreurs Courantes

  • Under-cooking legumes (chalky texture in final mash)
  • Under-salting broth (tastes flat)
  • Not enough dried lime tang (add another pierced lime if needed)
8
FINITION5 min

Separate broth and solids

Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer all solids to a large bowl or platter. Remove and discard bones (or save for stock). Keep the dried limes—they can be mashed in or served alongside for those who want extra tang. Keep broth warm in the pot.

Clear golden broth in pot; pile of soft solids in bowl
TextureSolids should be soft enough to break apart easily
Work over the pot to catch any drips—every drop of that broth is precious
9
FINITION5 min

Mash the solids (goosht koobideh)

Using a goosht-koob (traditional masher), large fork, or potato masher, mash the solids together until you have a rough, spreadable paste. The texture should be rustic—not smooth like hummus, but cohesive. Some prefer it chunkier, others smoother. Taste and add salt if needed.

Rough, golden-brown paste with visible texture; spreadable but not smooth
OdeurConcentrated meaty, savory aroma
SonSatisfying squelching as ingredients combine
TextureThick, spreadable, rustic

Étape Critique

The goosht koobideh texture is personal preference but it must be mashable. If you're struggling to mash, the components weren't cooked long enough.

Traditional goosht-koob is a heavy metal pestle. A potato masher works fine. Some people use the back of a large spoon.
10
FINITION

Serve in two stages

Stage 1 (Ab): Ladle hot broth into small bowls. Tear pieces of sangak or lavash bread and float them in the broth. Sip and eat the soaked bread. Stage 2 (Goosht): Spread the mashed goosht koobideh onto bread, add fresh herbs, raw onion, and torshi. Eat as open-faced sandwiches.

Clear golden broth with bread floating; separate plate of mashed spread with accompaniments
OdeurAromatic broth steam; fresh herbs
TextureSilky broth-soaked bread; rich, meaty spread
This two-stage eating ritual is the heart of abgoosht. Don't rush it—this is communal, leisurely eating.

Extras

Équipement

grande marmite lourdedizi potgoosht koobstandard

Préparer à l'Avance

  • Complete stew can be made 1-2 days ahead and refrigerated.
  • Fat will solidify on top (easy to remove if desired).
  • Keep broth and solids together until reheating.

Reheat gently, adding a splash of water if too thick.

Separate and mash just before serving.

Servir Avec

🍚Not traditionally served with rice—bread is essential

Accompagnements

  • Sangak or lavash bread (essential)
  • Sabzi khordan (fresh herb platter)
  • Torshi (pickled vegetables)
  • Raw onion slices
  • Fresh radishes

Boissons

  • Doogh
  • Black tea

Substitutions

lambBeef shank or chuck works but changes the character. Lamb is traditional and preferred.
dried limeNo true substitute—essential for authentic flavor. In emergency: lime zest + juice + pinch of amchur, but results will differ significantly.
lamb fatCan omit for leaner version, or use a small amount of ghee for richness.
dizi potAny heavy pot works for cooking. For individual service, use oven-safe ceramic bowls.

Mise à l'échelle

Scales up easily for gatherings—traditionally made in large batches. Double recipe needs larger pot but same cooking time. Each serving traditionally gets its own small pot (dizi) for authenticity.

Source

Traditionnel · Traditional home cooking

One of the oldest Persian dishes, dating back centuries. Originally a shepherd's meal, now served in traditional teahouses (chaikhaneh) and homes across Iran.

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